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Festival International de Jazz de Port-au-Prince, 2017 - Part 2

This is a festival that has had to overcome real adversity to survive: one major natural disaster, and many small difficulties in funding and logistics. While it must make do with fewer marquee names than comparable international jazz festivals, it has made a virtue of that limitation, by presenting up and coming artists from all over the world.
Festival International de Jazz de Port-au-Prince
Port-au-Prince, Haiti
March 4-11, 2017
In celebration of International Women's Day, Wednesday's concert featured all bands led by women, a first for the festival. Chilean saxophonist

Melissa Aldana
saxophone
Sonny Rollins
saxophoneb.1930

Glenn Zaleski
pianob.1987
French drummer

Anne Paceo
drumsb.1984

Leonardo Montana
pianoHaitian-American singer

Malou Beauvoir
vocals
Billie Holiday
vocals1915 - 1959

Yayoi Ikawa
piano
Interlude 3: Distillery Rhum Barbancourt
Barbancourt Rum is a longtime festival sponsor, and their distillery is located in Damien, not far from Port-au-Prince, in the midst of a sugarcane plantation. The operation includes everything but bottle and packaging manufacturethey also purchase a large quantity of sugarcane to augment their production. The plant is self-sufficient as much as possible: they even burn the dried cane after juicing to generate electricity. We got to see the entire process, from juicing the cane to extracting the alcohol to distilling and aging. The bottling plant was especially interesting: surprisingly compelling to see the entire line in motion, with empty bottles at one end, full bottles with labels and caps at the other. Crowned by a rum tasting, which also included a sample of unadulterated cane juice.
Thursday's show introduced a group of fresh faces to the festival. Spanish vocalist
Veronica Ferreiro
vocalsBelgian trumpeter

Jean-Paul Estiévenart
trumpetb.1985

Antoine Pierre
drumsb.1992

Don Cherry
trumpet1936 - 1995

Ornette Coleman
saxophone, alto1930 - 2015
Haitian dance hall singer/songwriter " data-original-title="" title="">Mikaben (drawing from compas, zouk, funk and hip-hop) brought in a big crowdcomplete with a "fan club" screaming and singing alongfor a full rock star performance experience. He sings in French, English, Creole and Spanish, and began in English with "Loving My Life." The rest of the set included a power ballad, a ballad on which he accompanied himself on acoustic guitar, and an interesting cover of Bob Marley's "No Woman, No Cry." His show concluded with a big sing-along anthem, evidently a well-known favorite of the home crowd.
Friday night's show took place in the most public setting of the festival, the crowded downtown square Place Boyer.
Veronica Ferreiro
vocals
Yilian Canizares
violinb.1980
The After Hours sessions developed from brief shows by the featured performers to active jam sessions over the course of the week. Keyboardist

Mike Del Ferro
piano
Jean-Paul Estiévenart
trumpetb.1985

Interlude 4: Village Noailles (Iron Craft)
Village Noailles is an iron-working community located in Croix-des-Bouquets (about a 45 minute drive from the city) where oil drums are recycled into decorative objects, jewelry, and pieces of elaborate original art. In the course of visiting the individual artist's studios, the visitor can witness the act of metalworking; the sound of hammering and chiseling is everywhere. This truly is a community, with an active program of apprenticeship and training, and it is still growing. Nice to know that a purchase here gives direct support to the artist.
Saturday's final concert was moved to the indoor venue at the Karibe Hotelfestival organizers were not willing to gamble on the weather a second time. Mexican guitarist Paco Renteria had been scheduled for a second appearance: this time Jo?l & Mushy Widmaier filled in on the opening slot. Martinique was represented by singer " data-original-title="" title="">Ronald Tulle ft. Tony Chasseur with a band led by pianist/arranger " data-original-title="" title="">Ronald Tulle ft. Tony Chasseur and featuring bassist Michel Alibo. The set began with a funk instrumental before Chasseur came onstage. The charismatic vocalist still ceded the spotlight to Alibo, who took a really hot solo on the third tune; and to Tulle, who played a striking unaccompanied piano solo on another instrumental tune built on a moto perpetuo figure. The set came to a climax with Chasseur leading an audience sing-along while walking down the aisle among the audience, which eventually led to a bebop scat vocal, with the rhythm section playing swing.
The festival's closing set was by French fusion violinist

Didier Lockwood
violin1956 - 2018

Linley Marthe
bass, electricb.1972

Duke Ellington
piano1899 - 1974
Wrapping Up
This is a festival that has had to overcome real adversity to survive: one major natural disaster, and many small difficulties in funding and logistics. While it must make do with fewer marquee names than comparable international jazz festivals, it has made a virtue of that limitation, by presenting up and coming artists from all over the worldand offering the opportunity to hear many of them more than once over the course of the week. It also serves as a showcase for many excellent local musicians, who more than hold their own with the visitors.
And then there's the warm welcome of the Haitian people, and the amazing, contradictory place that is Port-au-Prince. Crowded, colorful, and home to a population finding creative ways to survive in a difficult economy. It's an unforgettable experience, and one I hope to repeat.
Photo credits: Josue Azor (Didier Lockwood); Mark Sullivan (Haiti travel photos)
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