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Jazz em Agosto 2017

Lisbon, Portugal
July 28-August 6, 2017
Where to start with my description of the Jazz em Agosto experience? The gorgeous setting of the amphitheater in the garden of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation (Fundac?o Calouste Gulbenkian) in central Lisbon? The musical highlights of the fourteen concerts over ten days? The many amazingly creative and sympatico people I met? The beauty of the city of Lisbon and its people? Whateverwe'll get to all of that and more, and if I may indulge myself, a little personal history.
For a number of years, I'd wanted to attend Jazz em Agosto, based not only on reports from journalists and musicians, but also because I wanted to see how Portugal has changed since I lived in Porto for nine months in the mid-80s.
Jazz em Agosto did not disappoint, nor did Lisbon or the country as a whole.
The Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation was established by the Armenian industrialist Calouste Gulbenkian, who made his fortune in the oil business and died in Lisbon in 1955. The mission of the foundation is to promote education in the arts and sciences. To further that end, the foundation built a facility comprised of three museum buildings and a garden on a 19-acre parcel of land several kilometres north of the Tagus River and the main part of downtown Lisbon. Jazz em Agosto began in the early 80s (this was the 34th edition) and is a resolutely independent enterprise, in the sense that it is beholden to no corporate sponsorship and also in its artistic direction. Artistic director Rui Neves has held the position for most of the festival's history, and his vision is to present high-quality, forward-looking, and adventurous music in the avant- jazz tradition.
The setting for the concerts is unique in my experience, an open air amphitheatre in the foundation's thoughtfully designed English-style garden, a favourite place for the city's citizens to walk around and relax in, or to visit the foundation's collections of ancient art and contemporary Portuguese art. Behind the amphitheatre is a small lake surrounded by trees, and the musicians enter the stage from the rear before each evening's performance, the musicians emerging from a set of stairs sunk into the ground, to create a dramatic effect, akin to gladiators entering the arena as the trees wave in the almost constant breeze that blows in Lisbon in the evening.
Due to an airline snafu (the airline shall remain unnamed, but it is Portugal's national carrier), I missed the first concert on Friday, July 28, by

Steve Lehman
saxophone, alto
David Torn
guitar, electricb.1953

Tim Berne
saxophone, altob.1954

Ches Smith
drumsThe next evening's performance, by the French collective Coax Orchestra, was, unfortunately, an incoherent mess. The concert started promisingly enough, with a fanfare that sounded as if it would lead to a unified piece, but the group swiftly turned the concert into a showcase of the different styles in which they dabble, with no unifying thread. To compound matters, guitarist Julien Desprez, who had treated us with an inventive and unpredictable solo set earlier in the evening, was criminally underused for the first half of the concert, and at a couple of points, the group locked into a groove to which no dynamic tension was added.
Heather Leigh
guitar, steel
Peter Brötzmann
woodwinds1941 - 2023
Tuesday night's concert was a totally pleasant surprise, one of the three most satisfying concerts of the ten days. Trumpeter

Susana Santos Silva
trumpetb.1979

Lotte Anker
saxophoneb.1958

Rodrigo Pinheiro
pianoWednesday's show Quartet was a meeting of old friends Jo?lle Léandre,
Sebi Tramontana
trombone
Carlos Zingaro
violinb.1948

Paul Lovens
percussionb.1949
Starlite Motel's concert on Thursday was of an entirely different order, a loud affair (the only concert during which no airplanes were heard), with a sound something like the bastard love child of Black Sabbath and

Albert Ayler
saxophone, tenor1936 - 1970
Friday's 6:30 solo performance by bassist

Pascal Niggenkemper
bass, acoustic
Larry Ochs
saxophoneb.1949

Ken Filiano
bassb.1952

Harris Eisenstadt
drums
Nate Wooley
trumpetb.1974
Saxophonist

Chris Speed
saxophone
Andrew D'Angelo
saxophone, alto
Kurt Rosenwinkel
guitarb.1970

Jim Black
drumsFinally, trumpeter

Dave Douglas
trumpetb.1963
But there is no need to end on sour note. Jazz em Agosto is a wonderful experience, tainted neither by commercialism nor crassness. Lisbon is a beautiful city, and the people I encountered there are a reflection of that. Rui Neves and his festival team are friendly, efficient, and enthusiastic about the music and creating an enjoyable experience for all the festival-goers. The post-concert hang at La Gondola bar/restaurant opposite the Gulbenkian is epic, though now a thing of the past, as the building is slated for demolition. In the thirty years since I was last in Portugal, the country has moved forward in many ways, while retaining the essential elements of what makes Portugal Portuguese. The challenge, both in that endeavour and in the music, is to maintain a respect for tradition while moving it forward. Lisbon, Portugal, and Jazz em Agosto prove that it can be done.
Tags
Live Reviews
Mike Chamberlain
Portugal
Jazz em Agosto
Jazz em Agosto 2017
Lisbon
Susana Santos Silva
Dave Douglas
Tim Berne
Steve Lehman
Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation
David Torn
Ches Smith
Heather Leigh
Peter Brotzmann
Lotte Anker
Kurt Rosenwinkel
Jim Black
Andrew D'Angelo
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